Conifer Vanity Cabinets
A simple wall-mounted shaker style cabinet constructed using solid birch and oak plywood. Can be paired with any stone vanity top, sold separately. Pair with knobs and handles to create a classic feel, or use steel longbar handles for a sleek modern feel.
24″ – $159
30″ – $329
36″ – $399
42″ – $479
48″ – $499
15″ Drawer Cabinet – $239
18″ Linen Cabinet – $299
6″ x 36″ Filler Strip – $25
Conifer Legs – $10 ea
Mounting Brackets – $19 ea
24″ – $159
30″ – $175
36″ – $210
42″ – $245
48″ – $279
24″ – $79
30″ – $89
36″ – $99
42″ – $119
48″ – $129
There may be situations where the sink will interfere with the cabinet. Some larger sized undermount sinks may hit the front or center divider of the cabinet. This is easily remedied by using a reciprocating saw and trimming the portion of the cabinet that is hitting the sink. Just be careful not to trim any part of the cabinet that will be visible from the outside.
The cabinets should be leveled before mounting them to the wall. Use a small bubble level to determine level from left to right and front to back. Use wood shims under the cabinet to lift where necessary.
Fastening to Wall with Screws
We recommend fastening the cabinet to the wall using 2” gold decking screws. Pre-drill a couple of holes about 16” apart in the upper reinforced area in the back of the cabinet. It is ideal to hit studs, however this is not always possible. If there are no studs present, use wall anchors to screw into. You should also put at least two screws in the reinforced area at the bottom of the cabinet.
Handles are most typically installed in the vertical position on the doors and horizontally on the drawers. The handles on the doors are usually put within two inches of the top of the door. The handles on the drawers are centered in the center panel. Use masking tape to mark the positions for the screw holes. Make sure you double check dimensions before you start to drill any hole.
You will want to select a drill bit that is the same size as the mounting screws or slightly larger. When you are sure of you hole positions use a scrap block of wood and place it behind the area you are drilling and drill through the door/drawer and into the scrap block of wood. This will prevent the drill from splintering a larger hole inside the door or drawer.
In some instances the screws provided may be too short for the door handles. In this case use a larger drill bit that is slightly larger than the screw head and counter-sink a hole that allows the screw head to travel deeper in the door frame. This will allow you to use the shorter screws in the thicker panel.
Mirrors, Mirror Cabinets and Above Toilet Cabinets
Mark the center of the wall over the vanity or toilet at 62” and 72” off the floor and draw a faint line with a pencil. The bottom of the mirror should sit between 8” to 13” above the vanity top. This will depend on personal preferences.
Measure the distance between the mounting bracket holes on the mirror and the bottom of the mirror. Add the spacing dimension from the vanity top to the bottom of the mirror, to the distance of the mounting bracket holes from the bottom of the mirror. Use this dimension from the vanity top to mark your hole locations on the wall for height. Make this mark on the right and left side of the vanity roughly at 70” off of the floor.
Now use a piece of masking tape and run it over from one mounting bracket hole to the other and pull taught. Use a pencil or pen to poke the holes in the masking tape to mark the hole locations and mark the tape at the center between the brackets. Gently remove the tape in one piece and place it on the wall using the height and center marks you made before.
Use a pen or pencil to mark through the tape onto the wall. These are you mounting locations. It is a good idea to double check with a tape measure that these marks are accurate. Use a drill bit that is appropriate for the size of screw and anchor you are using. If you do not hit studs within the wall it is advisable to use wall anchors.
Note: The mirror cabinet and toilet cabinets do not have mounting brackets.
How to clean
The cabinets should be cleaned with a soft micro-fiber towel or soft terry cloth towel and a solution of dish soap in warm water for heavy cleaning and just warm water for regular cleaning. The idea is to cut any grease or grime on the cabinet without creating any scratches which can come from cleaning pads, paper products, brushes or cleaning compounds. For best results, use a dry micro-fiber cloth to wipe dry. This will help remove water spots and streaks.
Often times cabinets will need some touch up after installation from all of the handling. To touch up minor dings in the finish of wood stained cabinets, find a permanant marker of similar color and dab the dings to fill in with the color. Using your thumb or finger, dab over the marked areas to blend the edges. For the painted finishes, bring a door from your cabinet to a local paint store and have them mix up a small amount of paint to match. Using a fine paint brush, dab the dings with the paint. Using your thumb or finger, dab over the marked areas to blend the edges. If your cabinet’s surface finish is scratched up, but not affecting the color, you can easily clear coat the areas to blend away the scratches. You’ll need a few materials:
Steel wool “0000”
A can of Deft spray, clear lacquer finish in satin
A damp terry cloth rag
Note: It’s a good idea to mask off areas that are not being touched up and to have ventilation when using the lacquer.
Using the damp rag, wipe down the cabinet surface in the areas where you’ll be recoating to remove any dust. If the cabinet has any build-up of furniture polish, be sure to to clean the cabinet well to remove the build-up. Let the area dry. Rub the steel wool over the scratches using small circular motions, extending a few inches around the scratch on all sides. Dust off the area and wipe clean with damp rag to remove all debris. Let dry. Shake the spray lacquer for a while to mix up the satin finish well. Spray area using sweeping motions approximately 8-10 inches from the surface. Avoid spraying thick layers. Just quick sweeps over the surface. The lacquer dries fast and you will be able to add coats fairly quickly. Apply enough coats to cover any swirls from the steel wool.
Drawer and door adjustment
Often times, after cabinets are installed and leveled, the door and drawer faces may have shifted and are out of alignment. Not to worry, these can all be adjusted. To adjust the doors, open the door that needs to be adjusted and look at the hinges. On the side of the hinge that is mounted inside the cabinet, you’ll notice screw heads on the face of the hinge, as well as the screws that mount the hinge. The screw heads on the face will adjust the pivot of the door in four directions; left, right, forward and backward. The mounting screws can also be loosened/removed to adjust the door up and down. See diagram.
The drawers can be adjusted at the glides on either side of the drawer or by removing and realigning the drawer face. In order to adjust at the glides, fully extend the drawer and look at the glide on the side. The screw nearest the front of the drawer should be in a vertical slot. Loosen the screw and raise or lower that side of the drawer to the desired position then tighten the screw back up. You can also remove the screw completely and use a neighboring circular slot to fasten the glide back to the drawer. In order to remove the drawer face for realigning, open the drawer and remove the two recessed screws inside the drawer. Then remove the two screws on the underside of the drawer. Use a 3/16” drill bit to make the four holes in the drawer box larger then put the drawer face back on. Before tightening the four screws, shift and adjust the drawer face to the desired location then tighten the screws.